Pepper seedlings are very sensitive to fertilizer and water, fertilizers tend to form shoots for a long time, the cotyledons fall off, and the seedlings last for a long period after transplanting. Excessive fertilization is also prone to damage, causing damage to the root system, causing serious deaths of seedlings. In the absence of fertilizer, it is easy to form an aging seedling with less new roots, short stem details, and late flowering and premature aging. When there is a lot of moisture, the young stems are weak and have poor resistance and are susceptible to damping-off. Seedling drought, leaf sag, petiole curvature, flower bud differentiation was inhibited. Only scientifically using fertilizer to control water can cultivate strong seedlings. In the water and fertilizer management at the seedling stage, the following technical links are mainly focused on.
First of all, we must look at the seedlings and fertilizers and transplant them with fertilizers. One seedling topdressing depends on the growth of the seedlings, and the other depends on the fertility of the seedbeds. Third, it depends on the maturity of the pepper varieties. Early maturing varieties need to be top-dressed early in fertility, and generally about 25 grams per square meter of bed is recovered before the first half of planting. One week before planting and transplanting, topdressing once again to recover 50 grams of urea per square meter. In this way, the seedlings are transplanted with fertilizers, which are rich in nutrition, enhance cold resistance, shorten seedlings, promote early differentiation of flower buds, early flowering, and early fruiting. Fertilizers at the seedling stage can be applied as well as pouring water, but the afternoon leaves should be dry and the bed should be topdressed when dry.
Second, we must properly watering, see dry see wet. Chili plants are easy to lignify, young roots are resistant to waterlogging, and they need to grasp the heat when watering. When seedlings have water droplets on the edge of the seedlings, it indicates that the seedbed has high humidity. The large degree of leaf opening and the bright green leaves indicate no water shortage. At high light intensity at noon, if the leaves are not wilted, it indicates that there is more moisture, and the severe wilting of the leaves indicates that they have been affected by drought. Seedling watering should master "more than four or four less", that is, sunny days and more watering less cast, there is more wind and less pouring no wind, the wind most of the small pouring little water pouring, high temperature and more pouring low temperature and less pouring. Should be done to see dry see wet, wet during the day and dry at night, the day to pour the same day. Watering at the seedling stage should avoid cold water, and the water can be placed in a greenhouse, and it can be poured after heating at noon. The middle of the seedbed is properly poured, and two sides of the seedbed are properly poured.
Third, we must prevent cotyledons from falling early. The cotyledon of the seedlings was maintained to 8 leaves and fell off as a normal phenomenon. Premature shedding showed that the fertilizer was not properly managed. Seedlings grow too profusely, nutrient consumption is excessive, and the cotyledons are easy to fall off early. In the event of drought, excessive watering at one time can also cause the cotyledons to fall off. Cold raids will also cause the cotyledons to fall early. Therefore, special attention should be paid to the top-dressing watering system. One is to prevent madness, the other is to prevent aging, and the other is to prevent freezing damage.
Fourth, it is necessary to cultivate seedlings at low temperatures to improve their resilience. First, the seedlings that have just been released should be ventilated for a short period of time to not only regulate the temperature of the greenhouse, but also to train the tender seedlings. Second, the opening degree of the cotyledons should be less than 60, indicating that the humidity is too low and the air release should be stopped to prevent freezing injury. The third is the seedling stage. The blades are slightly twisted and the vents must be closed. After several times of hardening seedlings, it will improve the cold resistance of pepper seedlings and promote strong and healthy seedlings.
The standard of pepper seedlings is about 80 days of seedling age, about 15 cm in plant height, 0.4 cm in stem thickness, 8 to 10 true leaves, dark green leaves, more than 90% of seedlings, and no rust in root systems. Pest damage and mechanical damage.
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