Affected by many years of traditional plastic trimming techniques, there are still many problems in the plastic trimming of the Red Fuji apple trees, affecting the economic benefits of the fruit farmers. The problems existing in production are summarized below for reference.
First, throwing open angles for years, baton-like sticks. Due to the fact that the light shear does not open angles after successive years of rejection, the dominant position moves upwards, and it is difficult for the short shoots and twigs on the lower sticks to form flower buds. To solve this kind of problem, we must pull the angle of sticks to 80-85 degrees before germinating in the fall or spring, and ring-ring or ring-skinning from late May to mid-June. Generally, flower buds will be formed in the year and the result will be a leap year.
Second, even the young cut all trees, tree weakness weak branches. This situation is generally caused by a one-sided emphasis on sparse cuts and few years of total tree pruning. Should appropriately shorten a part of the peripheral branches, shrank and cut some stick-like branches, promoted the long strips; removed the weak branchlets within the crown, concentrated nutrition; by controlling the amount of results, adjust the forces between the branches.
Third, the backbone of the branches more than the second highest, robust results of fewer branches. Most of these problems exist in the 5-8-year-old Red Fuji apple trees. Since the main branches, side branches, and secondary side branches of the three main branches are left to be shaped during the initial shaping, the multiple branches of the branches are the second highest, and the result of the robust branches is fewer. The solution is: the transformation is based on the three main branch spindles, reducing Lateral branching, increasing the angle of the main branch, limiting the thickening of the main branch, lowering the order, and cultivating a robust result branch with a ratio of roughness less than 1/3.
Fourth, there are many short and heavy cuts, and the weak ones are strong inside. Red Fuji apple saplings are the most vulnerable to short-cut peripheral branches. If this happens, we must remove the strong twigs from the outside and keep the uniaxial extension. The remaining extensions are generally not cut or lightly cut.
Fifth, the lower layer of heavy shear cut slowly, head up some "big whip pole." When this happens, the spring begins to bend the "whip bar" with a small angle. In late May, it is peeled off at a distance of 5 cm from the base to promote the formation of flower buds. Keep the next stripping of the mouth and wait until the whip sticks for 1 to 2 years. Then cut them off at the stripping point.
Sixth, strong buds shoot buds, fishbone-like twigs and more. Some fruit growers use a small saw blade on the top of each bud before sprouting in the spring to encourage the Red Fuji apple tree to produce many elongated spiny branches. This is not only difficult to flower, winter twigs drained, and the next year there will be clusters of fine twigs, it is more difficult to form flower buds. The correct method is: only one or three buds are carved on the back of the strong and prosperous strips on the back or on the right side.
Seventh, middle and long branches "drainage" more, thin and weak branchlets send a "nest." In order to solve this problem, we should thoroughly dispose the weak branch group with multiple branching, and select the strong and middle and long branches to cultivate the uniaxially extending branch group; pay attention to the use of vigorous sprouting branch culture group.
Eight, unilateral extension of the sparse weight, into a "whip shape." Because one-sided extension of the culture sticks is emphasized in one direction, some of the lateral parts are sparse and the sticks become whip. To solve this problem, 2-3 shoots can be engraved in the bare parts of the shoots to promote lateral branches and ensure that the lateral shoots are uniaxially stretched and weakened year by year to cultivate more fruiting branches.
Nine, winter cut summer, poor nutrition and poor light. In production, summer management should be emphasized. At the end of April and early May, the buds of unsuitable sites should be removed. Further adjustments should be made to the branches and angles of the enlarged bars; from the end of May to the beginning of June, girdling should be carried out to remove the dense branches.
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